Soul Sisters and Blues Brothers

Pick up your dictionary and look up happiness. Somewhere in there you’ll find Paraty. It also makes an appearance under quaint, cool and funtastic. And if it’s not, throw away your dictionary because it knows nothing.

I have just returned from a three-day blues, jazz, soul and R&B festival. It promised all that and delivered in spades. The music was sublime. Two stages - one in the historic square and the other by the water’s edge and a full program that ended in the wee hours of the morning. Very wee - I abandoned Friday night’s program at 2 am before the last band started, Saturday’s program ended around 4 am and Sunday’s ended a smidge earlier at 3 am. The best thing (apart from the music, the atmosphere, dancing, festivities etc) was that it was all free. How cool does a town council have to be to invest in such an event?! And one suspects their investment would have paid off because the town was packed to the rafters. I’m sad that next week I will miss the 18th Annual Prawn Festival and the Literary Festival (unrelated) because if the last two festivals I’ve participated in are anything to go by, there will be a whole lot of hootenanny going on. And everyone knows I love a good hootenanny.

I also love the fact that in Brazil, as well as music, love is all around. People are snogging everywhere you go. Not just an arm casually draped over your beloved and a quick peck. Out and out making out. It’s just excellent. All ages. All appearances. With children or sans. Entire families (actually, it seems like villages) turn out for these festivals. From babies to grandparents, everyone comes along and everyone is busy dancing and being festive. And whoever is coupled-up is also loved up. It’s a beautiful thing. There’s a lot of love in this room.

Speaking of love in rooms, if you are looking for a room in Brazil, don’t go to a motel unless you want to rent it by the hour. Hotels, poussadas and hostels are for sleeping in (well, hostels are only good for sleeping if you are very tolerant of noise and discomfort but I digress); motels are for loving in. The rooms usually come complete with toys and other accoutrements. No point saying “I don’t know where that’s been” - am I the only one grossed out by the thought of using someone else’s intimate accessories?

Back to gingerbread Paraty, as well as the festival proper there were street bands, buskers and a selection of high quality artisans of every description. This at least is one thing that is cheap in Brazil - the arts. There is an abundance of talented musicians, artists and performers and the arts are highly accessible and well patronised by the Brazilians. Just another thing that is loveable about this place. For a very small town, there is a remarkably long list. Shopping in Paraty is fabulous - the usual tourist kitsch is available but in between are a dozens of shops showcasing local artistic talents in clothing, jewelry, art and handicrafts. And last but not least, there is the food. As well as local fare, we indulged in credible Thai and I found an Italian restaurant (with chic black and white French decor) that created sheer culinary bliss. The Torta di Frutti was so delicious I had tears in my eyes eating it. I believe I have found heaven - it’s at Pippo in Paraty.

So what does one do after a perfect weekend of music and entertainment? Chillax on a boat cruise of course. Back on the Banzay, we once again sailed the islands and coves. The views are so picturesque my eyes hurt. I can’t do them justice in words or even pictures. You’ll just have to come to Paraty and find out for yourself.